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Wine country tourism is booming.
But after a solid day of sipping Sauvignon, how do you spend the rest of your trip?
Nestled on California’s Central Coast and boasting the wildly popular Paso Robles appellation, San Luis Obispo (SLO) county is encouraging visitors to look beyond bubbles and Bordeaux by exploring both undiscovered wine regions as well the craft beer scene and a new distillery culture.
Past Paso
Yes, Paso Robles has amazing wines, but so do other areas in SLO including the Edna Valley. I started my wine tour booked through Breakaway Tours at Stephen Ross Wine Cellars.
I pulled into an industrial area, convinced GPS led me awry. Surprisingly, there was the Cellar.
My group sat down with Stephen who elaborated on the Grenache, Rosé and Pinot Noir wines we taste along with artesian cheeses from Fromagerie Sophie, each selected to pair with an individual wine. The Epoisses de Bourgogne with a 2014 Pinot was exquisite.
Next, I visited family-owned Claiborne & Churchill, purveyors of Alsace styled dry Rieslings and Gewurztraminer varieties. Bitten by the wine bug, owner Clay gave up a lucrative teaching position at the University of Michigan to take a $6/hour vineyard job in the early 1980s to learn the craft.
I ended the day tasting one of my favorite varietals (Zinfandels) at Saucelito Canyon. Don’t miss the late harvest Zin dessert wine.
My base for the night was the funky new The Butler Hotel. The mid-century modern six-room property has no onsite staff and operates more like an Airbnb than a hotel. My room and Wi-Fi codes came via text before check-in.
I ended the evening dining with John, a winemaker from Niven Family Wines, enjoying his unique Albarino and Gruener Veltliner wines paired with farm-to-table cuisine at Thomas Hill Organics.
Distillery Detour
Already experienced Paso wine? It’s time to try the Paso Robles Distillery Trail, featuring nine outlets along the route.
At Re:Find, winemakers Alex and Monica Villicana became distillers as a way to find a purpose for the saignée that was lost in the red winemaking process. By fermenting this bleed of free run grape juice and triple distilling it, they are able to make handcrafted vodka and gin. As the couple talked about their products, their passion and personality are as intoxicating as a 151 proof spirit.
“Every harvest, I would rack my brain to find another viable use for my saignée,” said Alex, who is also Chairman of the Board of the Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance.
“Some winemakers use their saignée for Rosé, or they pour it down the drain, and I just knew there had to be a better use. My research paid off and, after years of planning, my saignée now has a new purpose: a very special, high-quality vodka and gin, which is the ultimate in spirit-making sustainability.”
After lunch and a mixology demonstration at Fish Gaucho, our group headed to Krobar Craft Distillery to learn about the rye, gin and bourbon spirits Stephen Kroner and Joe Barton are creating. The guys also got their start in wine before adding spirits to their repertoire. While most people are sampling at the bar, our group gets to try things straight from the barrel (i.e. very high proof!).
Our last stop took me to Wine Shine. Boisterous owner Patrick Brooks invited us to belly up to the bar and experience an assortment of brandy made from the saignée of some top Paso Robles vintners like Denner and Herman Story.
We sampled spirits like hibiscus lemon brandy straight and then mixed with a strawberry mixing soda, and orange brandy. Brooks compared it to diet Grand Marnier since it only has four percent sugar.
After a day of potent potables, a relaxing evening at Paso Robles’ most luxurious accommodations, Allegretto, was in order. The resort brings Tuscany to town, set in rolling acres of orchards and vineyards. From my poolside cabana, which backs to the Mount Olive Vineyard, I simply sat back and drank in the views.
Brew Time
After sipping the area’s wine and experienced local spirits, end your trip in SLO county in San Luis Obispo proper, tasting the craft brews in this college town.
Start your tour at Bang The Drum Brewery, the smallest brewer on the Central Coast. Sample esoteric offerings like a yerba mate infused IPA (how California is that?) or barrel aged chocolate porter. I love that there is an assortment of drums to channel your inner Dave Grohl or simply pound out some frustration.
Then continue to the Barrelhouse Brewing Company’s speakeasy in downtown. If it looks like you’re entering a barbershop, you’re in the right spot. In fact, you can get a cut and shave while enjoying Good Medicine IPA or, if you’re a bit more “metro,” the Pomegranate Berliner Weisse.
Don’t miss Central Coast Brewing, which was creating craft brews before it was such a thing. This is San Luis Obispo’s neighborhood bar and a chance to mingle with the locals over a pint of Chai Ale or General Schwarz Black Lager.
Since the city enjoys 286 days of sun a year, sit on the patio and SLO down.
End the day at Slo Brew Brewery, another with a history nearly 30 years in the making. Sip on award-winning brews like Feelin’ Your Oats or SLO Progress. Best of all, SLO Brew offers five lofts above the brewery, so getting “home” at the end of the night is simply a walk up the stairs.
With one, two and three bedroom spaces, it’s a great option for those on a guys or girls weekend or for several couples. The exposed brick façade and modern interiors make for a welcoming space, but guests should be advised that the hotel can often be loud. In fact, there is a disclaimer that no refunds will be issued due to noise.
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